Monday, December 22, 2008

Ouray Ice Climbing Trip

I made my goal of climbing Ouray. December 18th through the 21st was a good weekend of sharp steel and ice. Unfortunately I haven’t received any photos from the other group members yet so I don’t have any of me climbing. I went on the trip as a secondary leader/instructor as majority of the people on the trip were beginners. The first day was done in the Camp Bird Miners area. The next 3 days were spent in the ice park, which was very fun and safe. I got in some really good mileage. But the most interesting and exciting part of the trip happened on the first day. This is a long one, and sorry Mom, I’m not holding any details back, so you might want to consider not reading it. I don't want to get an earful.

For the first day of climbing, we hiked up the canyon to climb some natural lines because the park hadn’t yet opened for the season. Due to availability of climbs, I ended up on a climb called Skylight. I didn’t have the guide book, so I didn’t have any beta. I eye-balled the route to be a solid WI4 rating and said let’s do it. The climb consists of two pitches. The first being about 20+ feet of thick to thin ice with a “V-shaped” crack to negotiate as you pull yourself over the lodged boulder. For my first pitch of the season and first climb of any sort in about 6 months, it was a good warm up. I belayed the other two up one at a time due to the narrowness of the climb. (This is what the first pitch looks like. That's not me, I pulled this from the internet just for a reference. There wasn't this much ice when I climbed it.)

We then walked up to the next pitch. (This picture is what the climb looks like from the trail. Half of the second pitch, minus the top section is visible. Once again there wasn't even half the ammount of ice present when I climbed it.) I call this the “Devil’s Butt Crack.” The ice formed on the left side of a very narrow slot, about 5 feet wide at the bottom, to 3 feet, to 10 feet in the middle, and then to 1 ½ feet at the top before you have to pull yourself through another “V-shaped” crack, with this one being even smaller and more narrow than the first pitch. I reracked my protection and looked up at my line. There wasn’t much ice on the route, so I had to go straight up the middle. I started up at a nice slow pace so to not pump myself out. The cool thing about the Devil’s Butt Crack is that you can just lean against the wall behind you to get a hands free rest. I definitely took advantage of this going up. But since it was the Devil’s Butt Crack, things didn’t pan out as great as they started. Deception was present.

When I got to the middle section I noticed that the wall behind me started to get further and further away, making it impossible to use it for a rest, or even reach out and touch it. At the same time as the wall furthered from me, the ice started to steepen from almost vertical to dead vertical, to slightly past vertical. I was now on WI5 ice for sure. I wasn’t able to notice these changes in the steepness and wall aspect from the ground, and had miscalculated the actual crux of the climb. I now refer to the crux as the Devil’s Deception. I started to get a little pumped, as what happens at cruxes, and worse yet, I started to lose my cool. I was about 10 meters above my last piece and still didn’t have a good spot to stop and place a screw. I started to talk to myself. The fear and actuality of a possible fall in a narrow slot high above my last piece that was in thin ice, had worked its way to the forefront of my thoughts. I started to lose it. I began to rush my swings and my feet placement, which just added to my current forearm pump that was going on. At one point I lost my footing as my front points popped out of the ice. What made this scary was that I only had one tool in the ice as I was mid swing with the other tool. That is called a “one armed bandit” because you are hanging from only one arm. It’s now the third one that I’ve had to experience that on a lead. I think this is where I strained my left latissimus dorsi muscle, but I wouldn’t notice till later that night. I was sweating like crazy, partly because I was working hard on the climb and partly because of nerves. My swings were becoming more and more desperate.

By now I had thought to myself twice that I was not going to be able to get my tools in the ice, or even hold on, eventually peeling of the ice and get seriously hurt. I did not bring any cord or a 22 cm ice screw to perform a V-thread and lower to the ground, nor was I in a good place to be able to safely perform the maneuver. Here, as I realized that the situation had turned from floating in calm seas to teetering on the edge of a rogue wave, ready to go down in rough seas, I said the second quickest pray in my life: “Oh Lord, help. It’s not my time.” I now chuckle as I write this for two reasons: Primarily, because that it’s the second time I’ve been faced with this situation, and secondly, to push the feelings of the fear and helplessness from the experience out of my mind.

I was able to get my tools in, breathe two deep breaths, collect my nerves, and hurry up the next 3 meters of ice to where I could kick my leg out behind me, establishing a stem which helped give me a good stance to place a screw, and give my arms a much needed break. The crux was now starting to disappear below me. I then pushed the previous doubt, fear, and anxiety out of my mind with the top out only 10 meters above me. I took my time resting and finally yelled down to my belayer, “Whew! That was a little hard.” I don’t think that they sensed how sarcastic I was at this point. I hadn’t allowed myself to tell them that I was in trouble during the crux so to not unnerve their minds, causing them to act nervously, which would have lead to an increase in my anxiety, allowing a complete loss of my nerves. I left it at a one man show because it was all I could do to not crumble.

As I climbed to the top, the slot narrowed to the point where I could swing my tool back no more than 5 inches from the ice, and forced me to position my body to the left of my line, practically laying my side on the rock. I navigated myself through the narrow crack, topping out expecting to have the tree anchor a few feet in front of me, only to meet another 20+ foot section of vertical ice. No problem right? Not exactly. Well I had used all seven of my ice screws on the main part of the climb. I didn’t even care anymore. I quickly soloed up this section of WI4 ice and clipped into the anchor setting up the belay.

Wow that was fun. I smiled as the trial was over. I called Daniel on the radio and told him that I was now at the top of my climb, that I had gotten on the hardest climb I ever led, which was a little over my head for the first climb of the season, that it was a really fun route, and the details of what went down. Haha. I had overcome that crazy challenge. As I sat there with my sweat drenched layers now freezing to me, waiting for the strong beginners to struggle up this climb, I knew that I completed the hardest lead I’ve ever attempted. Here, I told myself not to let it go to my head, it wasn’t a good performance on my part.

After we got down and back to the car, I viewed the guide book. Skylight is rated at WI4+ to WI5+. The description said that in the early season the route is WI5 due to the steepness and the thickness of the ice, along with the scarcity of good placements for protection. I then smiled because I have now led a WI5. Once again, I told myself not to let it go to my head, it wasn’t a good performance. I’ve noticed a few more gray hairs since this experience.

Monday, December 15, 2008

Busy Busy Weekend: Avalanche Certification, Going Away Party, Soccer, and Hockey

This weekend was quite a busy one for me. The main event for this weekend was my Avalanche Level 1 Certification class. There were some avalanche incidents that happened on our second field day that deserve notice. I will hit on that later.

Friday after work I packed up my car, rushed through the traffic, and made it down to REI Salt Lake for the introduction lecture of the class. This was good and went over everything that I had been reading about in my preparation for this cert. Three hours later, we were done with the first day. Everyone left full of excitement due to the big storm coming in and the instabilities in the snow pack that would be troubled the next day.

Saturday started out with the storm front moving into Little Cottonwood Canyon as I was driving up. It was bound to be a huge dump. The flakes were large, heavy, and plentiful. I really just wanted to be out skiing. After our morning briefing, we divided up into groups and then skinned out to different areas. Our first stability tests were showing the obvious signs of new snow instability. We all expected that based on our previous discussion. However our first pit on a west facing slope had some unexpected surprises. The baselayer of the snow pack had huge, 3 mm, facets. This sugar actually shot out of the snowpack as we moved snow away from the base of our pit. All of our stability tests on every aspect that we looked at had this extremely weak layer of facets. There were also the melt freeze and rime/rain crusts from November prevalent on all aspects. After all of our our analyses on the different aspects and elevations, I decided that I will be very hesitant about going into the LCC backcountry on anything above 30 degrees slope angle till the end of January. There are way too many danger pockets. For instance one of the slopes we were testing on had about 10 lines on it from these snowboarders. After they saw our group's stability tests on that slope, they all bailed. Later after our class, our instructor for the day was able to get the whole slope to propagate and collapse by jumping on it and hitting a trigger point. Those snowboarders were only a few yards away from being in a very large avalanche.

It wasn't as hard to forgo skiing this new deep snow after seeing the dragon that existed within the snow pack. I talked with a couple of friends that are big into the backcountry and told them of what we found and warned them of the instabilities. I told them that the discussions today predicted that we'd hear about a couple of serious incidents by Monday.

After our first field session was over I drove up to Ogden for my friend Nazira's going away party. She now has to head back to Tajikistan because she wasn't able to obtain a work visa since she's been in the states for about 8 years on a student visa. So now it's 8:30 pm, I'm dead tired, and cannot fall asleep for a power nap for the life of me. Why was I trying to nap? Oh just because I had a indoor soccer game at 11:00 pm. As for that, we dominated the other team and played alright as a team.

So now I try to fall asleep and nothing. I last remember seeing 1:50 am on the alarm clack. The next thing I notice after I blinked was my alarm going off at 5:30 am. By this time, the second storm front had already rolled into Ogden and on was on its way to Salt Lake. Driving was miserable. There was slush, snow, and ice all over the road. There were a few times in which people, who were driving straight, not touching their brakes, and not driving too fast just spun out in front of me. I thought I was going to be in a big pile up at one point. It did take me almost 2 hours to get up to Alta.

So we grouped up and had a discussion about the avalanche forecast for the day. The forecast for the day was MODERATE. The question was asked if I agreed with it. I frowned and said that I thought it was wasn't as conservative as it should have been. Why didn't I agree with it? Well a moderate rating says that natural avalanches are very unlikely with skier trigger avalanches possible. I thought that there would be some natural avalanches today and that skier trigger avalanches were probable from our work done on Saturday. Our guesses on why it wasn't considerable were mainly along the lines of yesterday's huge temperature drop during the storm. That really helped to lighten up the snow and didn't put as much weight on the old snowpack. Today's agenda was more involved in safe travel and route finding in avalanche territory. It was nice because we finally got to ski. But to ski a lot, we had to skin a lot. This isn't the most fun thing for me since I was on regular telemark bindings and not on touring bindings that have a releasable pivot. After doing various stability tests, we dropped onto a 30 degree slope for our first run. It felt pretty good to finally be skiing, but we were still all very cautious, not wanting to cause a slide and get buried.

After we skinned up to Rocky Point we did another slope stability test session. We tried our luck on a steeper slope, and ended up getting some good lines in. We all, even multiple instructors, thought that the slope was going to slide. Honestly it probably could have if one of those hidden trigger spots was hit. As we were skiing out of that bowl up to the ridge, our head instructor Jake, also the head of the Wasatch Backcountry Rescue, received a call on a burial that just happened inbounds at Snowbird, 2 miles to the west of us. Jake booked out to the Alta resort and headed to the Bird as fast as he could. He later briefed us on what happened and I'll get to that.

We finished out the day with a couple of good turns and headed in for our debriefing. We were all awaiting news about the Snowbird burial. When Jake walked into the Alta library the whole room immediately turned to him and waited for the news. Jake looked as if he had just passed through hell. He had that look on his face that permeates stress, frustration, and despair. He told us that the girl was standing up on top of a buttress on Baldy when a slab broke above her. She was swept off this tall cliff and then carried over a series of smaller cliffs for another 200+ feet. The debry came to a stop on Chip's Run and she was buried. The search started immediately. They ended up finding her alive with a probe line. The sad thing was that she was carried over a lot of cliffs, buried about 5 feet down, and was buried for 50 minutes. The probability of survival drops to 30% at 30 minutes and drops further every minute after that. They started to perform CPR right away and then put the AED on her. We could see Life Flight try to get into her and it had to make 3 or 4 passes due to weather. It was a miracle that she was alive at the time but with that much trauma and that long of a burial, not that many people expected for her to survive. Sadly she didn't make it through the evening.

Some people around the area started to say that the resort was obviously negligent in opening that run today and must not have done avy control on that slope. I laughed at those comments knowing, and being confirmed by Jake, that Snowbird does avy control on that slope with the howitzer gun everyday (yeah the big artillery), that there had been over 100 skiers on that run before it happened, and I had been out to stability tests and snow profiles on similar aspects for the past two days. It was just a freak accident.

Anyway, I booked out of there to make it up to Ogden right in time for my hockey game. I was already dead from skinning 6+ miles, and now I have to play on a depleted bench. Yes I played like crap, and yes I was dead tired the whole time. This weekend warrior stuff sucks.

Groupmate smiling about the goods turns had


Day 2 Instructor Matt