Monday, September 15, 2008

Heaps Canyon Zion NP: Round One

Here it is. I finally got the pictures from the Heaps trip. I have been waiting for over a year to do Heaps Canyon. Now I finally got my first go at it and it won't be my last. The whole week leading up to the trip I was distracted from work, sleep, and everything else, having the unknown of what the canyon would throw at me on my mind. I had been carefully watching the weather and for the first time in my canyoneering life, I watched and prayed for rain. Here's my story, and yes it is long and detailed.

The trip finally started on Friday night after everyone got off work. We loaded up my Subaru with gear, food, people, nerves, expectations, hopes, and fears. I believe that all of these things made the drive down seem even longer, and more drawn out than normal.

We made it to the Springdale area around midnight and set out our sleeping bags under the stars in the Mosquito Cove camping area: it would be the first sleep deprived night with more to come. The night is the darkest and coldest right before dawn. I woke up at 4:15 am to the chill of the night. My summer sleeping bag had met its temperature threshold. It was just too late in the summer for my compact summer bag. I laid with closed eyes until minutes before my alarm went off. I went into the car and warmed up my nalgene of gatorade. If you haven't experienced steaming lemon-lime gatorade yet, I would highly recommend against it. It served its purpose. I was revived and now awake enough to realize that I now had sleep deprivation headache.

We collected camp and went to the backcountry desk to obtain our permit. Everything was going good: we were the only scheduled group to be in the canyon at this time. Now back into Springdale to rent our drysuits. I had no intentions of feeling the cold 40 some degree water in the potholes of the Heaps narrows. The thought of a 6 mm wetsuit didn't even cross my mind. I wanted full protection.

We headed back into the park with all of our gear, packs weighing close to 50 lbs if not more. Because we came down in only one car we had to approach the canyon from the valley floor by way of the West Rim Trail via Angel's Landing. This route would lead to a total vertical gain of about 3300 feet majority occurring in the first mile and an half of the 5.6 miles to the first rappel. It would take approximately 4 hours to get to the start of Heaps Canyon via Phantom Valley. We made great time up Angel's Landing with our energy draining packs.

Unfortunately the group dynamics weren't 100% on the same page and we took longer for lunch than I wanted to. That, added with the extra time in finding the nonexistent side trial to the first rappel, added to my concern of pushing the pace up. Others in the group didn't seem too concerned with speed. This is not the canyon to be taking our time on. After some confusion on the location of the second rappel, we managed to get to the valley floor. Here would could pick up the pace having about 2 miles before our next rappel and narrows section.

We made it to the Phantom Valley narrows at about 4:30 pm. At this point we had a discussion on the gameplan. I walked up and around to look past the narrows section proceeding us to see if there was a sneak route that would allow us to not suit up in our drysuits yet and continue down the canyon. Unfortunately it wouldn't be so. We then suited up and headed into our first pothole. This section proved to be a little tricky. Our third pothole ended up being the most difficult of the canyon. A simple pack toss allowed escape of the pothole. The tossed pack was cammed into the exit and held tight enough for one of the group members to pull himself up the lip. We went through about 7 or 8 potholes.



Let me deviate from the story to explain something of importance. I planned on doing this canyon either right at the conclusion of the rainy season or immediately following a big storm so that the potholes could have the possibility of being at their fullest. This would be a decision and gamble to follow a storm even long after the conclusion of the rainy season that paid off.

At this point we exited the series of potholes. We came to a long sandy then rocky corridor. At this point we all believed that we were at or near the "crossroads," a area where the three canyons of Gunsight, Phantom Valley and Isaac Canyon converged with Heaps. This is where we planned on camping for the night. The night was coming upon us so we decided to set up camp. We found a nice sanding spot, made a fire with deadfall wood, prepared dinner, and dried our clothes and gear. This would be my second night of deprived sleep. The first thing that kept me from sleeping was the crinkling of my emergency blanket that I laid down as a tarp. I didn't want to wake up with sand and leaves all over me. Ever turn or adjustment rattled through my ear canal. At 4:13 am I woke up because of the cold. Even though I was now dawning fleece pants, two fleece tops, and a beanie cap, my sleeping bag once again failed and had its threshold met and exceeded. I did, however, manage to fall back asleep.

I didn't hear my alarm go off. I was upset waking up an hour later at 7:00 am to find out that another member of the group heard the alarm and decided that it was too early to get moving. Once again this is not the canyon to take your time or have a late start on. After two of the group members made and ate pancakes, I was really not pleased at that since we really needed to be moving and you just don't do that in Heaps since it's very time consuming, we started day 2 of our canyon descent 2 hours late. Of course this along with my lack of sleep added to some irritation with some group members.

Getting ready for Day 2


Dawning the drysuits once again, we continued down the "sandy corridor" to the next section of narrows and subsequent potholes. Notice that the "sandy corridor" and the "crossroads" in the previous two paragraphs are in quotations. This will come into play later. We rappelled into the potholes and were met with a reminder that this is Heaps. The water was even colder than the previous series of potholes. The water had to be at 40 degrees exactly. It took my breath away as I lowered myself into it. The extreme chill hit me even through my drysuit. We continued through the narrows, dropping and rappelling into almost completely full potholes. I kept expecting to come to a keeper pothole in which I would have to drill and hook my way out of. This didn't happen. We were met with full potholes, long swims through section over 100 and sometimes 200 feet. Swimming with a pack full of water, already weighing around 50 lbs without the extra water was a challenging task.

The Real Sandy Corridor
After a good section of this we emerged from the narrows to be in a prominent tall sandy corridor that had Gunsight Canyon leading in from the North on our left with Isaac Canyon soon following in from the South on our right. We now had the realization that we had come to a sucker "sandy corridor" and "crossroads" the previous night. The canyon description had fit those two areas quite well. But we were now at the real crossroads. That meant that the last two hours were not part of the second series of narrows and were actually planned to have happened the previous day. At this point the next thought in my mind was, "S#!t, we're now not only 2 hours behind schedule but 4 freaking hours behind schedule!" I really felt pressured to up the pace because I did not want to do the final rappel sequence in the dark.

In our next section, the true Heaps narrows, there was one wading section in particular, that was completely cut off from the sunlight, and was filled with a ton of rotting wood and dead animals. The appearance of it was very similar to the trash room in Star Wars Episode V. Think to when Luke and Han Solo rescue Princess Lea, escape by jumping down a vent, and landing in a trash room. The smell was horrendous. I made the mistake of hitting the top of the water with my hands, releasing a toxic waft of retched stink. The last part of these potholes was actually a really long swim. During the swim I noticed that every 15 feet or so I would come to a pothole lip that was about a foot under water. As I exited the swim I noticed that the last pothole, which had water only 5 inches from the top, had a series of drill holes and hook marks. We had now gotten through the narrows without experiencing any truly "Heaps" hard keeper potholes.

View after exiting the Heaps Narrows
The potholes were so full that it took most of the technical aspects out of the canyon. Honestly I felt a little jaded. I wanted the challenge, I wanted to be tested, and have to battle against Heaps. I looked around and saw that the water level was about 1 foot lower than the water stains on the pothole walls. The potholes were almost at the fullest it could be. However I appreciated the circumstances because it allowed the other members of group to move through a long section in a faster than expected time.

Getting to the 2nd of 3 last rappels
A few more rappels and some walking brought us to the start of the last rappel sequence. We first had to climb up this 5.3, 5.4 30 foot sandy chimney double crack climb. This easy section allowed us to see into the Zion Valley. It was about 3:30 pm. This is the first we'd seen of the Zion Valley in about 26 hours. It was a site that brought much joy, excitement, and fear. I was really concerned about doing the rappel sequence without any trouble. I down climbed to the first rappel station and went 65 feet to the next anchor. I set up the next rappel while locked off while still on rappel. I couldn't remember the next rappel length and I couldn't see the next anchors.

At this point I am hanging about 470 feet above the Emerald Pools. The sight was amazing. There was a group at the upper Emerald Pool watching and taking pictures as I descended. I rappelled about 70 feet and still couldn't see the rap anchors for the final 300 feet. My nerves and dehydration were getting to me. I rappelled another 30 feet slowly, looking left, right, and below me, scanning the cliffs to find the anchors without passing by them. At one point I locked off on my figure 8, fearing that I might have passed by the anchors, and jumped out away from the cliff to try and see into a cove inset into the cliff 50 feet below me. As I did this, the large group of Japanese tourists gathered at the pool, screamed and started talking with a tone of distress. Honestly this make me laugh a bit. I was also jubilant because I had seen the final anchor when I jumped away from the cliff. At this point I decided to have some fun with the tourists. So to further scare them, I undid the lock-off, and did a jump drop, purposely looking as if I were out of control. There was loud chatter that ensued. I didn't want to really scare them so I laughed loud enough for them to hear me and waved to them. Haha, always a prankster.

I made it to the last anchor and safetied into one of the bolts. At this point the rest of the group followed me down. Now there happened to be for of us crammed onto a small cliff that could 3 uncomfortably, hanging precariously 300 feet about the canyon floor. Everyone went down hesitantly at first but got into their comfort zone once they were free hanging under us. After all had gone, I carefully rigged up the pull rope. I then descended down. I felt great, hanging 300 feet above the floor, viewing the beautiful surroundings, feeling that I have accomplished a goal I set out to do over a year ago. I touched down at 5:30 pm.




The trip was a success. Unfortunately pulling the rope wasn't. The pull cord that I used was supposed to be static. This wasn't the case as the line stretched every time that we pulled on it and couldn't overcome the weight of the rappel line and the friction at the anchor. We set up 3-to-1 pulleys in two different locations to try and pull the rope. All this did was stretch the pull cord even more. We had over 900 pounds of pressure pulling and the line still would come free. After 90 minutes we decided that we needed to leave and weren't going to get it out tonight. This was almost a hard decision because I was right about to ascend the 300 feet to figure out the problem and rerig the pull rope.

After sitting on the Zion shuttle and cleaning up our gear, we headed out to get some grub, and temporarily avoided the long drive home. I drove the whole way back to my place reaching my parking stall at 3:30 am. The trip had ended. I had learned some good lessons and unfortunately had to relearn some lessons that I should have not had to deal with if I had made some better decisions.


Heaps Canyon Additional Pics

Some side notes. I talked with a ranger on Monday and told him of my stuck rope. Two days later another ranger called me to tell me that my rope had been retrieved and was waiting for me at the lost and found. Hallelujah.

View from the West Rim Trail


View into Phantom Valley


Heading towards the Phantom Valley Narrows


Phantom Valley Nole


Some Zion Tree Frogs and tadpoles


Snacking and watering up in the Real Sandy Corridor


Trevor looking down on me as I set up the first rappel of the final sequence


The upper Emerald Pool

Monday, September 1, 2008

Author's Side Note

There is a lot that has gone on during the month of August. For these next posts to really make sense, one will have to read or have read the following posts in this order:
  1. Disappointing Weekend - Sunday, August 17th, 2008
  2. Polar Opposite: A Great Weekend With Some Cool Surprises - Tuesday, August 26th, 2008
  3. Worst Weekend Yet - Monday, September 1st, 2008
  4. Stick to Your Freakin' Rules - September 1st, 2008

Worst Weekend Yet

Oh my gosh!! This was the worst weekend of the summer. And what makes it even worse yet, I even set up means by which to bail, more than one let me add, had other plans to insure that I had something else going on, and I still went through with the original plans even though all signs pointed to DON'T.

So now you're wondering what could have possibly happened. Well I'll be brief with this one since I have already had to tell this story to about 10 people. So the "MaGirl" invites me to go to the dunes for the weekend. That's d be fun I think, just kicking it and playing around on quads, and hanging out with a cool girl. So I never did truly commit to the activity. The committing didn't come by ways of commission, but rather omission. How did I do that? Well when you ask about departure times, bunking situations, food/gas contributions, and by never saying that I would "think about it and get back to you." So I let the assumption be made that I'd go. So what does that mean for me: cancel your date with Haley on Saturday night, in which I was going to double up with Mike and his girlfriend. You see they had set me up with Haley. And here's a quick side note, they still went out, Haley took some guy that she didn't really care for and Mike said that they all had a good time, with Haley mentioning that she'd rather of been out with me and not the schmuck she was with. Haha. I just shake my head and sigh with a smile thinking, "I've learned my lesson; follow your freakin' rules Alex." Oh the following post after this will add on to that, so keep on reading.

So I won't get into details but I'll tell you why this weekend, the last weekend of the summer, was the worst of them all. So "MaGirl", the one that asked me out to the dunes, just happened to have cloud of disenchantment about her the whole time out there. Ever since we woke up on Saturday morning she just was different and it sucked. "MaGirl" was rude, not talkative, harsh, and crabby. I tried to be accommodating to her and just chat with her and try to cheer her up, but she'd just shrug that off. So she, the one that invited me out there, pretty much didn't even socialize with me or acknowledge that I was there. What the crap are you supposed to do when the person that brings you out there just ignores you the whole time. That doesn't make much sense. And things didn't get better the rest of the time: what the crap am I to do when the girl you come with ignores you, you didn't drive, and you're just meeting the rest of the group for the first time? At one point I left with a quad to drive out to a place that I could get reception and it was a good time. I texted/called all of my buddies that told me to not go and told them that they were right. Finally I am actually socializing with someone. Man you would of thought the one that brought me out would have done that. So my first escape was nice.

I do have some thoughts on why she was like this from a conversation that actually occurred with her on Saturday night when we took a walk. So what I gather is that she had just very recently separated with her last relationship, a very long-term committed relationship, like probably right before I met her. So she had that on her mind (Oh now this has some influences that play out in the following post). So now here I am with her at a place/activity that she has done with her ex probably 3 times a year for the past couple of years, surrounded by the same people she always does it with, and she's probably just thinking about her ex and separating with him. She said to me at one point, "I just think that I can't make that big of a change in my life right now" in reference to going out with me. Um, I think that she was looking into something with me a little too hard, too fast, and too soon. Wow.

Other than that conversation, I don't think that she said more than 50 words to me all day.

Sunday didn't get any better. She was crabby, tired, and most likely now has a broken hand from stupidly putting it out of the roll cage when we tipped while out with her bro-in-law in a Rhino. So it didn't get better. The best part of this day, other than leaving, was taking a trip out to get cell phone reception and making plans for Monday, and the rest of the week.

The drive back: now that was peaceful and quite. There wasn't one word said once we got into the car. The first word that was said was when I fielded a phone call from a buddy. Luckily, he and I still both speak Thai and we had a conversation detailing how awesome the weekend was, without the "MaGirl" knowing exactly what was said. And then my mother calls to give me a girl's phone number. That made me laugh. Thank goodness for the iPhone and being able to receive my email directly on my phone. Haha. Wow.

So as I get my stuff out of her car into mine as fast as I could, trying not to get too wet in the rain, I just felt so elated. It was done. As I checked her car one last time for stuff, I was right about to give her some more money to even out the food/gas contribution, but something just held my hand back. I don't know if it was her attitude, my anxiety to get out of there, her anxiety to get out of there, bitterness from the "great" time with her, or my premonition that she'd just stubbornly throw it back.

It is now over. Time to drive home and actually get some sleep.

HIGHLITES
I will say that I did have some fun. The first notable came when we went out on group rides in the Rhinos. So 12 of us went out with 4 to a Rhino and just had a blast romping through the dunes. Adam was driving ours and he's a really fun, crazy, experienced rider on every sort of recreation vehicle at the dunes. We were flying through the dunes at midnight, getting air, taking crazy corners, hitting drops, climbing sand razorbacks, just having a blast. We did have one tip when Adam backed down a wall that he couldn't climb, and backed the left rear of the Rhino over a sand ridge. We sat there for a moment wondering if we'd tip or just stay. Then the world's slowest tip over happened. I mean we could have made a burger and eaten it before we went down. This is where the "MaGirl" stupidly put her hand on the outside of the roll cage and got it pinned/smashed against the ground (Not so much a highlite). We all bailed out of our seat belts and grabbed the cage to lift it off her. We didn't know what was pinned under the cage and thought it was a leg. Well that put a somber mood on the rest of the night/ride down.

Watching Adam drag race his quad up the face of the dunes and just destroy everyone. He surely had the fastest quad there. The man's put so much time, effort, and money into it.

The other highlite was just BSing with Adam and J.J. when all the ladies went out for a ride. Man there were some funny stories told.

The last highlite was finally taking off, and a day early at that. I'm home.

Stick to Your Freakin' Rules

Ok so I placed this post here after the weekend write up so that you'd already know the reason behind my new rule and the rules I should have stuck with.

Here are the rules that I should have stayed true to:

Dating Rule #1:
Thou shall not date divorced women.*
  • There's just way too much baggage that is associated with that situation. I don't want that on my plate.
  • Ok well there is the * present. I'm not doing a complete blanket on divorced women. If I know the background behind it, and it's not crazy and all that, I'll consider it.
Dating Rule #2:
Thou shall not date women with children.
  • So there is just too much crap that you have to deal with. It seems at first you just go out without acknowledging the child situation so that you can get to know each other. Well you have to view her in two different lights: her out with you and her with her child. Not fun and adds more to the equation.
  • Plus I have had a girl kind of use her child as "leverage." This girl would tell me that her daughter was asking about me all day, wondering when I'd come over next or she'd say that her daughter wanted to talk to me and hand her the phone during a call. Not cool.
Dating Rule #4: This is the new one. Yes I know that I skipped #3, but it's not pertinant to this post.
Thou shall not date women that have just ended a long-term relationship.
  • This is going down as the "MaGirl" rule.
  • If I would have known how recent her break up was, like a week or two before I met her, I would not have gotten her number and taken her out.
  • So for now I have put a standard of, let's say, 3 months of being single after a very committed relationship before I'll take them out.
Dating Rule #5: This is also a new rule. This came to me after I initially finished this post.
Thou shall not go out to an activity with the parents/family until after 4 or, preferably, more dates.
  • This is now the "Baggage"-"Roo"-"MaGirl" Rule.
  • This came to me as I realized with the last 3 girls that I went out with/dated, I did something with their family on the second or third date.These all ended up weird/awkward eventually (drama, drama, drama).
  • I am now staying away from situations in which the girl is more than ready for me to be around their family when I/we don't really even know each other yet.

So you might be asking why I have these rules. Well Utah is a very messed up place. Everyone seems to have been married before (or really looking to be), now divorced, might have a kid, and just bringing the baggage by the boat load. Most of the women in Ogden that are my age and single are most likely divorced. To find women that do what I do, have the same desires and life goals, and aren't divorced with a crap ton of baggage, Alex will have to move down to Salt Lake City.

Hopefully I will find a job down there then be able to make my move soon after. Hey I'll be closer to the better skiing areas. The wheels for this are already in motion. Once the job comes, the roommates and move are already in a holding pattern, and be easily set in motion. Now I just need that miracle of getting a new job to come through.